Hem with serger having four threads. Hand Versus Sewing Machine: Which One Should You Do? But on that occasion, you'll need to choose the correct kind of stitch to suit the fabric. When you hem this material properly, it should stay neat and attractive. For example, you can give a plain crew-neck sweater a V neck or boatneck. Handling. Yes! Secure your thread to the fabric. When a thick woven fabric like cotton twill or denim splits or wears through, stitches alone aren't the solution. You can hand-stitch the hem instead, using very small, tight stitches so the sweater fabric won't unravel. The owner of these pants already cut the old hem off and left one-inch to fold up for the new hem. It actually looked good! It also provides a guideline to help keep your coverstitching straight. Wash away stabiliser is your friend in those situations. If you sweater is curved you will have to cut the hem tape into pieces to create the same shape. At least on my machine, a walking foot is an absolute must if sewing anything on knits, even straight stitches with the grain. A walking foot will probably help but sometimes you can blame the fabric. Requires a serger. (The 5/8 inch is how tall the hem tape is.) Altering the length: Cutting a sweater's hem can shorten it to a more desirable length, whether it's hand-knit or store-bought. Next, iron the cuffs, measure 1 ½ inches from the bottom of the pants, and unpin the cuffs. Otherwise it gets wavy and stretchy, prone to breakage, and very amateurish. Learning how to sew a lettuce hem is crazy easy, making it one of my most favorite ways to finish hemlines on knit fabrics. I purchased a bulky cable-knit sweaterknit fabric that I plan to sew into a sweaterdress. This foot is not adjustable. However, I have some Designer Vogue patterns that call for raw, unfinished knit hems, so sometimes it can be a design choice. Are there any other sewing tips or tutorials you'd like to see on the blog? The neckline finish is perfect. The little vertical rib lines in the shape of v- stitches on the right side make the grainline, like on a knitted garment. Use plenty of pins so that you do not have to focus on holding the fold in place but rather can concentrate on getting the stitches into the pants. Turn up the fabric until it reaches the appropriate measurement marking. When you're armed with these simple techniques, your knit garments will look much more polished and professional. Hemming knit fabrics can be tricky since you the opening you create needs to be stretchy enough to pull the garment on and off the body with ease. Because I didn't want any topstitching to show, I used a hand stitch to secure the hem and attach the lining at the sleeve and skirt hems. 5 ways to hand stitch a hem Anchoring and tying off. Or hem by hand using a herringbone or catch stitch. Even though hemming isn't always necessary with knits, finishing your garment with a nice hem will make your handmade outfit look much more polished and professional. You can hand-stitch the hem instead, using very small, tight stitches so the sweater fabric won't unravel. You are welcome to link to this blog, but please ask permission before using any text or images. I really appreciated especially your advice re the FOE. Cut the soft stretch the length you need. Stitch the hem. Affords stretch to knit garment hems. Place the hem tape on the bottom of the sweater measuring up the amount that will be cut off. Selecting the Best Needle Use a universal needle. Requires Fold Over Elastic (FOE). Use plenty of pins so that you do not have to focus on holding the fold in place but rather can concentrate on getting the stitches into the pants. 1. Last week she was here with her How to Hem Everything: Woven Fabrics post. Steps To Hem Sleeves of A Sweater First, decide how deep you want the hem, then trim the excess fabric. Checkout this post on making a shell edge finish. Ordinary turned under hem with whip stitch. After stitching, trim off the excess fabric on the wrong side of the fabric, being careful not to cut the right side of the fabric. It’s when you can’t be bothered creating a hem and know you can get away with it. Turn the garment to the right side and then trim the seam allowance of the fabric to half its original width. (An overcast stitch done by hand might be needed on the raw edge first.) You can see in the image below that by stretching the binding slightly it already wants to flip up and away from the body of the garment. Yours may look different than mine underneath. Leave a long tail on the serger threads and tie off the threads with a single overhand knot close to the end of the stitching line. When to Use: I’m biased, so I’d say almost always when making knit garments such as T-shirts or dresses. So we know from my topstitching knits tutorial a few weeks ago, that when you're sewing with knits it's very important to use stitches that stretch. To make this stitch on a hem, insert the needle into the fold of the hem (between the two layers of the fabric). A twin needle creates two parallel rows of stitching and allows the hem to stretch when worn. Secure your thread to the knit fabric. Remove the current hem. This is one of my oldest habits in sewing. Truth be told, I sew everything with my walking foot except zippers and piping. I’ve found this happens a lot less often now that I always overlock/Serge the raw edge before hemming. The gauge starts at 5/8″ on the curved edge, so I usually call that close enough or press my hem so it’s just shy of that marking. A bit more time consuming than a neckband or other finish. It’s exactly what’s it is called: folding … Fold the hem width to a scant 1/4 inch and sew along the hem’s top edge simultaneously. This setting closely mimics the look and function of an overlock stitch. Flatlock Hem. If you do not have a serger, then you can also try sewing a rolled hem by hand. Easy to change thread colors to suit fabric. This will help prevent “tunneling” of the fabric between the 2 rows of stitching. Allows for a pop of color if contrasting thread color is chosen. Keep in mind, as you hem polyester knit fabric, it has some degree of stretch incorporated into the fibers. Against: Visible threads. My Dirty Secret on How to Sew Knit Fabric Without Puckering, Stretching or Skipped Stitches. Now she is here with her extensive tutorial that covers knit fabrics and demonstrates eight different kinds of hems you can use with them. For: Nice, neat appearance. How to Hem Stretch Fabric – I sew so many clothes for my kids from knit fabric. What I’m looking for is what stitch(es) to use to attach the hem to the garment to allow the ease required by the knitted fabric. It is suitable for woven medium and heavyweight fabrics like flannel, gabardine, denim, coat fabric, twill, linen, all kinds of cotton, some types of silk, for example silk dupioni, etc. With right sides together, stitch the unfinished edge of the binding to the raw edge of the neckline, stretching the binding a little as you go. For: Very neat. If you didn’t finish the inside edge of the knit binding now is the time to trim it with scissors. On the last row of the hem, you pick up a loop from the knitted cast-on and knit through it. Hemming with Soft Stretch. I’m afraid I don’t have any advice other than to practice. Sewing a hem would be a better decision. Hold the fabric right next to the area where you are stitching. Loosely pull the thread but don't tighten it all the way. Knits are a little tricky to cut out especially with pins and … Hi Kathryn. Take care using pins on elastic to avoid them snagging or pulling. The most basic hem is the double fold hem. Pin the hem in place. The hems on my knit patterns are usually 1/2″. The stretch and resilience of knit fabric … I was so excited that this sewed the knit material without stretching it out, and yet it stretched with the fabric naturally. I tried doing a blind hem by hand to hem this stretchy crop top and the hem kept rolling up! Let me know in the comments. How to Hand Stitch a Rolled Hem. You IRON is your best friend! Trim close to the stitched edge for a nice, neat finish. But, when I went to sew the skirt hem, I realized that it would be best to use the fagotting stitch. That way the fabric will get stretched out as the edge is serged. Altering the neck: If you cut the neckline of a sweater, you can instantly change the style. For: Professional finish. Trim the fabric to a suitable length below the chalk or pin line. Sewing a hem works best on thin sweaters.You can knit a hem using a completely different method on thicker sweaters. So the next time you're sewing with a knit fabric, elevate your project to a whole new level of expertise by using one of the following techniques to create a beautiful hem. Keep in mind, as you hem polyester knit fabric, it has some degree of stretch incorporated into the fibers. Used when sewing undergarments, lingerie, sportswear and sometimes swimwear. Fuse the hem tape to the sweater with the iron. Ps. The length of the strip should be about 75% the length of the raw edge you’re going to use it to finish. When to Use: A clean, neat finish to a knit edge such as a neckline. Here are 3 tips on how to hem stretchy fabric , knit fabric, without it getting wavy, curvy, or puckered and without a serger. Hi Kathleen, sorry for the late reply. Against: Set-up can take some tinkering. Tip #2: Here’s how to avoid visible straggly ends of your serged side seams. A twin needle creates two parallel rows of stitching and allows the hem to stretch when worn. Thank you for your suggestions. 3. How to Hem Stretch Fabric – I sew so many clothes for my kids from knit fabric. Doesn’t alter the length of the garment at all. And that's it. Sew a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch along the raw edge of the knit fabric to finish the fabric edge and prevent it from stretching and fraying. Adds a little satisfying weight to the finished edge. I finally got so annoyed and tired of hemming it that I just grabbed by hem tape and ironed it on. Trim the excess fabric. For: Can it get any easier than doing nothing? In the video, her hem had a zig-zag stitch underneath. My knitting skills seem similar to yours, very basic, but I thought I'd try raveling some of the yarn from the fabric to knit a ribbed hem and neckline. Starting at the pin on one leg, use a hem gauge to measure the length from the edge of the fabric to the bottom fold. This will pull the needle threads toward the wrong side of your fabric. Unless otherwise credited, all work on this blog is © Liesl + Co., Inc, 2008-2021. Working from the right side of the garment, and using a long straight stitch, edgestitch the binding, or stitch “in the ditch.” Be sure to catch the finished edge on the other side. There should be enough fabric to accommodate the hem depth. But not so tight that it warps the fabric or doesn't allow it to stretch. For: Simple, easy to do with just a sewing machine. The easiest way to hem sweater knit is to choose a banded option on a pattern or to double fold the hemline and stitch in place using a long straight stitch or a stretch stitch. When to Use: To enclose a fabric edge like a binding does but with the benefit of an elastic finish. I use tissue or pattern paper to stabilize my fabric. Just be careful if you need to maintain stretch at the hem that you don’t lose it all with a fusible hem tape. 4. a wide, boat neck neckline), then a single straight stitch can be used instead of a zigzag stitch. I learned it from one of my teachers in fashion school. 3. Really frustrating! Fold the edge of knit fabric twice. Finally, here’s one kind of hem you can sew on your serger – a flatlock hem. Work with an arm length of thread, and anchor/tie off in the hem. But you have to be cautious with materials such as knit or woven, which is stretchy. Now lets hem a knit fabric … How to do: With both the fabric and the FOE right sides down, place them together with their edges aligned. After folding hem to WS, place right needle through first st, then through first loop of knitted CO. Wrap working yarn, then pull new st through the old one and the CO loop. When to Use: As a narrow, decorative hem. Lining up the Fabric to Sew. This is just a quick little post today about hand stitching! 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